I understand that the bench is the "excuse" to get a saw but take care to figure out what you will be needed a saw for? For hand saws (backless saw 24" and up) and panel saws (backless saw 24" and under) these are not really joinery tools. I Aaron brings up a very good point that a saw used to build a massive workbench is not necessarily the saw that will get used a lot on future furniture projects. Otherwise, one can flounder for a while ( ) trying to discover just what the end goal is. Oh, and to buy the best first and learn from that what sharp and perfect is, is indeed, a wonderful way to start.
To start from scratch with your own $20 *bay purchase, plus vise, files, DVDs on sharpening is actually not that bad either-all saws must be sharpened eventually! So, learning on the front end lessens the entry cost but lengthens the time to achieving quality saws. You might be able to buy a rip and crosscut pair for $200 or so. There are a few other rehabbers, tuners, and sharpeners out there. But the quality saws are indeed very nice to own and use!įor the handsaws, look for Daryl Weir or MarvW on Woodnet or SMC. Three LV backsaws can be purchased for the cost of just one from the previous quality makers. Only what matters is your ability to cut to the line-and that takes a bit of practice!Īs a minimum, I'd suggest a 12" rip backsaw (a little more versatile than the 10"), a 14" (or, 16" but that's kinda a lot saw to manage) crosscut, and 2 handsaws (24-28" range-one crosscut (8 tpi is average, with 10-12 finer and slower) and the other rip (5 tpi works well for me but 4 or 4 1/2 is faster, especially in wet wood).įor the backsaws, you have several fine makers-each with its advocates-Gramercy, Adria, Lie Nielson, Bad Axe, Wenzelof, and LV Veritas. Though I have 14" and 16" tenon saws, I sometimes cut big timber with my panel rip saw. Rip is rip! I'm actually more comfortable with a 12" saw length but do quite well with a 10", too. I cut dovetails with 8, 10, or 12" back saws. If I had not used the thicker plates to learn, I would have kinked a thinner plate saw. The Adria are seriously sharp, have no issues to rehab, and are made (like all other modern ones) with thinner plates. I've bought vintage Disstons, Simonds, and Atkins saws (panel saws, dovetail, carcass, and tenon), as well as a few Adria saws. Like most other tools for woodworking, there's a lot of personal preference.